Lost Tribe of Israel: Still Lost (at least for me)

Ok fine, I'll tell you one story. Just one.

I went to Manipur and Mizoram in search of the B'nei Menashe Jews. They belong to the Kuki, Chin, and Mizo tribes straddling the India-Burma border (but most of the Jews are on the Indian side) and they believe they are a Lost Tribe of Israel.

Well, they're still lost. At least for me. Because I couldn't find them.

In Manipur, I discovered that most of them live not in Imphal, the capital and where I was staying due to safety reasons (to travel beyond the Greater Imphal area requires armed police escorts to protect you from insurgents and dacoits) (what?! dacoit gets a red squiggly? is that not an English word?) (just checked, apparently that word is Anglo-Indian, derived from Hindi, and only used in India. I mean bandits), but in a rural area far away. So I never met them.

In Mizoram, I found one of their synagogues and the Israeli missionary center* (which also houses a synagogue), but both were closed. And it was Shavuot! The synagogues were closed on a holiday! I don't understand. Maybe they've all already migrated to Israel.

I might not have met any Jews, but I did meet Christians who believe they descend from Israelites. I walked into the headquarters of an organization called the Chhinlung Israel People Convention (CIPC) supported by something called Beth Israel International. I walked into their office because I incorrectly assumed from the org's name that they were Jewish.

The CIPC is trying to convince the UN to recognize them as a Lost Tribe of Israel, although I'm not sure what that accomplishes exactly. These Christians claim they have no interest in living anywhere but Mizoram (unlike the Jewish members of their tribe, who explicitly say they want to move to Zion). When I asked why they're lobbying the UN for this recognition, they said it was because they wanted to feel secure in their identity, to know where they're really from, and for that it was necessary for the world to recognize their identity and origins.

They showed two different sketches of their migration from Israel. The first was a map of the world, with a straight line from Israel to Northeast India that crossed the Himalayas twice (first onto the Tibetan Plateau, then back into the foothills). Um, unlikely. I don't think groups of people migrate in straight lines over millennia, and crossing the Himalayas once would be incredibly difficult, let alone twice. Isn't that why in Himachal Pradesh the Indo-Aryans are in the wetter, greener side of the peaks and the Tibeto-Burmans are in the other drier side in Spiti? Because it's rull hard to cross the mountains? Ok I have to admit I know zilch about human migration, and I'm sure humans have migrated across many mountain ranges, but it does seem unlikely to me that the Kuki-Chin-Mizo would have crossed the highest mountain range on Earth twice.

The second was a flowchart diagram that listed the locations along their route. This made more sense. From Israel they went to Assyria and northeastward into Mongolia, then southeastward through China to the coast, then southwest to Vietnam, then northwest through Burma and into Northeast India. More of a zigzag-y loop than a straight line and this makes sense with their genetic makeup (similar to Burmese).

However, to me Israel seems like an arbitrary starting point. Technically all people originated in Africa. To get from Africa to Asia on land, one would have to cross through Israel. Israel is at the Africa-Asia junction; by foot, there's just no way around it.

Speaking of genetics, the CIPC people gave me a scientific paper, apparently published in a reputable journal, about a study exploring any possible DNA connections between Kuki-Chin-Mizos and Jews. The result? There is no connection. The Kuki-Chin-Mizo have no Jewish genetic markers. Clearly CIPC never actually read the article, or else they wouldn't have given it to me as evidence that they descend from Israelites.

Other questionable evidence they gave me, entitled "Historical Evidence," was a long list of quotes by 19th and 20th century Christian missionaries. Well, for one, telling people they are a Lost Tribe of Israel is a key tactic of missionaries (though I don't really get how that works). Secondly, these quotes say that the cultures of Tibet, Burma, Siam, India, and China all resemble the ancient traditions of the Israelites, which is a bit hard to believe. These missionaries don't explain how or why the traditions are similar, they simply state "the cultures are similar" without evidence. They would have failed the persuasive writing unit of my 10th grade English class. ...although apparently quality argumentative writing is not necessary to convert millions of people. I guess telling people Jesus will save them is enough.

I no longer know where I was going with this. Just that I never met the Jews but that the Christians who share their Lost Tribe belief were interesting to meet, despite the fact that their beliefs are based on tenuous evidence (at least according to my Western way of thinking). But you know what? Maybe the evidence doesn't matter. If these people want to be Christian or Jewish and truly believe that they are, then indeed they are. If they don't care that much of their traditional culture has been lost in the process, then I shouldn't care either. It's not my culture to care about, and I always hate when Westerners lament the loss of certain elements of life in developing countries to which they don't belong. Cultures have always been and always will be dynamic, and honestly Judeo-Christianity has brought a lot of good to the region (like literacy and the end of headhunting and inter- and intratribal warfare), no matter how much missionary activities bother me.

By the way, you can expect my blog absence to continue for a while. I don't think it would be fair to Ben to make him wait long hours in an Internet cafe while I write blog posts.

*Yes, Israeli missionaries. I know, Jews aren't supposed to proselytize. But I don't know what else to call people who enter a community with the intentions of replacing the local culture with their own set of customs--and actually carry out Ashkenazi Orthodox conversions, mikvah and all. The missionary center had photos of Mizos dressed in traditional Orthodox clothing, even with tzitzit.

Diarrhea Mystery: Actually Solved.

My wonderful friend Alice read my previous post and replied via email with the following:

"Because I like talking about poop too:

Though your new friends' openness about bathroom practices is admirable, there are a lot of different things that can cause bouts of diarrhea, and various reasons people who grew up in a country where the water is safe have a harder time here.

1. Some foods draw water into the bowels. Undigested lactose (in lactose intolerant people) and fructose (in people who just consumed too much fructose) are examples of this.

2. Some people's bowels are irritated by specific foods. In some cases this may be due to an allergy, though it could also just be due to eating more pungent food than usual. Sometimes undercooked spices have a strong bitter taste, so if there really are a lot of undercooked spices being used, this might irritate both your taste buds and your bowels. This should vary from person to person, and also depend on what kind of food you're used to.

3. A number of medicines can mess with your system enough to cause diarrhea.

4. Of course, the water here is often contaminated with pathogens like E. coli. People who've had more exposure to these pathogens throughout their lifetimes are less likely to get sick from a small dose than a person who's grown up with less exposure. However, it's still quite possible for people who are born in developing countries to get diarrhea, especially as children. About 8% of deaths in India are from diarheal diseases, most of which are treatable. Tests of diarrhea patients in Indian hospitals usually find evidence of intestinal pathogens in about 50% of cases, though tests may miss infections in many of the patients whose results come back negative. So, I think the main cause of diarrhea in people of all nationalities here is infection.

Anyway, this seems likely to be correct--everyone I know here (with whom I'm close enough to talk about these things) gets mild diarrhea once in a while. Yet in America, it's somewhat less common. I don't see any reason to think that Americans are more careful about fully cooking their spices, and in fact Americans probably eat more uncooked food and spices... because the water in India is less safe."

Thank you, Alice, for solving this mystery!

Another Indian Mystery: Solved?

Another great Indian mystery:

Why does Indian food (sometimes) give people diarrhea?

I had always assumed this was a Western-stomach-not-used-to-Indian-food thing. But yesterday Mudit and Shatabdi, Mudit's wife and another coworker and friend, were complaining about how the office food gave them diarrhea. I was shocked. Indians were having diarrhea too!

Shatabdi explained why the office food was giving us diarrhea: the spices were not fully cooked. Apparently, in order to stave off diarrhea, spices are supposed to be cooked (according to Shatabdi, usually fried) before being added to the food. But the cook at work was just throwing in raw spices after the rest of the food had been cooking for a while, and with not enough cooking time left to fully cook the spices.

So the next time Indian food gives you diarrhea, it's likely that the spices were thrown in raw. But I'm a bit skeptical that this is the reason every time. After all, if one throws in the spices at the same time as the rest of the food, shouldn't the spices be fully cooked? I'm sure there are other reasons behind Indian food-induced diarrhea. For me, this mystery is not yet completely solved.

India's Greatest Mystery: Solved.

India is a land of mystery, with many great mysteries that bewilder the foreigner. But one mystery is far more mysterious than the rest:

How the hell do Indians go to the bathroom without toilet paper?!

This mystery has plagued foreigners for centuries, since the arrival of the British, probably. Well, after 3 years, 1 month, 1 week, and 3 days (I first landed in India on July 29, 2007) of searching for answers all over the subcontinent, I have finally discovered the secret.

Indians guard this secret very closely. But one Indian, one of 1.1 billion people, let his guard down. Mudit, a coworker and new friend, told me what Prashanth, Angela, Anand, Pooja, and all the others refused to explain (seriously, I've been asking everyone). He described two methods:

1. The Pour-then-Wipe From the Front

Hold the hand you do not use for eating (so if you're right-handed, your left hand) in front of you, slightly below your crotch. Pour water into this hand, which should be cupped, with your other hand (you will find a small plastic pitcher in most Indian bathrooms). Then, wipe between your legs. Repeat as necessary.

2. The Simultaneous Pour-and-Wipe From Behind

Hold your non-eating hand behind you and slightly below your butt. Using your eating hand, pour water down your intergluteal cleft (a.k.a. your butt crack) from behind. Catch this water with your non-eating hand and wipe upwards. Pour continuously and repeat wiping as necessary (the pouring and wiping actions are simultaneous).

Apparently, the preferred method is #1, The Pour-then-Wipe From the Front. It's easier, more comfortable, and less messy (well, less messy in terms of water, I guess; I assume your wiping hand gets just as messy). Now, if you think like me, you would probably ask this next question:

But doesn't that leave your butt wet? How do you not leave the bathroom without a wet stain on your pants?

According to Mudit, yes, this will leave your butt wet. But the amount of water in your hand is minimal, so it's not enough to soak through your pants. Especially if you're wearing underwear between your butt and your pants, as you should be; the underwear will absorb the water so that your pants do not have any visible traces of your bathroom excursion. I of course asked if this was uncomfortable (I wipe my butt raw if that's what it takes to be dry, thank you very much), but it seems Indians are just used to this feeling.

And my last question, which even the all-knowing Mudit could not answer:

If Indians wipe their butts with their hands, then why didn't my TERI coworkers ever wash their hands after using the toilet?!

Mudit was just as grossed out as I was.

(By the way, he's also a bit grossed out about the idea of wiping with only toilet paper, without water. He feels that the water is absolutely necessary for proper cleaning, and to wipe without water just isn't hygienic. So perhaps it is the Westerners who have strange, less sanitary bathroom habits!)

And yes, this post means I'm back in India and back to blogging. More to come from Shimla soon!

PS: I apologize if this was a bit graphic for some. But you can't say I didn't warn you!